Difference between revisions of "Armor Tips"
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=== Anti-Rust Tips === | === Anti-Rust Tips === | ||
| + | * Wipe the sweat and dirt off the armor first then wipe on a rust protecting product. | ||
* Jaye recommends 3-in-1 machine oil. | * Jaye recommends 3-in-1 machine oil. | ||
* WD-40 is '''NOT''' recommended as it will evaporate. You can use it to repel water, but it isn't good for storage. | * WD-40 is '''NOT''' recommended as it will evaporate. You can use it to repel water, but it isn't good for storage. | ||
* [[Brian Chabot]] recommends [https://www.fluid-film.com/ Fluid Film] as it is lanolin based and good for both steel and leather | * [[Brian Chabot]] recommends [https://www.fluid-film.com/ Fluid Film] as it is lanolin based and good for both steel and leather | ||
| − | * A historical method is a mix of olive oil and bees wax. Wipe it on and polish like a car wax. This is available from Darkwood Armory under the brand of "[http://www.darkwoodarmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=8 Max Wax]" | + | * A historical method is a mix of olive oil and bees wax. Wipe it on and polish like a car wax. This is available from Darkwood Armory under the brand of "[http://www.darkwoodarmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=8 Max Wax]" This can be used as lip and skin balm in a pinch, too. |
| + | * A variation of the above that is historically plausible and works better is to mix a paste of beeswax and boiled linseed oil. This oxidizes into a rubbery seal. It is also excellent for wood and leather. | ||
| + | * Put desiccant bags in your armor box. Put a big one inside your helm when you store it. | ||
Revision as of 14:38, 25 July 2019
General Tips
Sizing and Fitting
- It cannot be stressed enough: Get used to wearing your armor BEFORE your first fight. You should NOT be pointing and fiddling with armor on the day of your first fight.
- This goes for any new piece of modification as well.
- Do a shakedown a week in advance of any fight if you can. Repeat the day before.
- Check your weapon(s)
- Armor up.
- Walk around.
- Hit a pell a few times.
- Make sure you can armor up and armor down with minimal help. Sometimes squires are scarce. Plan ahead.
Arming Points tips
- Some people (Jaye) like to use paracord with the core removed.
- Some people (Brian Chabot) like to use full core paracord with melted ends.
- Brian Chabot also likes to use 4mm tarred hemp marline with brass aiglets from The Practical Goose (at Pennsic)
- Many people like heavy leather lacing
- In the fabric of your arming clothes, *work* the holes rather than punching them. Use an awl or other tapered tool like a marlin spike to work the fibers apart. Brian Chabot thinks Sewn eyelets are pretty solid, but most fighters sew a leather patch and punch holes in that for the lacing points. If you need patches, Nadler Metalcrafts carries them.
Anti-Rust Tips
- Wipe the sweat and dirt off the armor first then wipe on a rust protecting product.
- Jaye recommends 3-in-1 machine oil.
- WD-40 is NOT recommended as it will evaporate. You can use it to repel water, but it isn't good for storage.
- Brian Chabot recommends Fluid Film as it is lanolin based and good for both steel and leather
- A historical method is a mix of olive oil and bees wax. Wipe it on and polish like a car wax. This is available from Darkwood Armory under the brand of "Max Wax" This can be used as lip and skin balm in a pinch, too.
- A variation of the above that is historically plausible and works better is to mix a paste of beeswax and boiled linseed oil. This oxidizes into a rubbery seal. It is also excellent for wood and leather.
- Put desiccant bags in your armor box. Put a big one inside your helm when you store it.
